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Untitled Article
the little , ugly , black-looking picture , which was paraded about with so much state . 16 th and 17 th . There ia a diligence twice a week from Bologna to Milan , passing through Moclena , Parma , Placentia , and Lodi . In this J took my place , and found it a much preferable conveyance to the poitures 9 though from the frequent interruption of the Douane , and still more ftpm purely
bad management , it is thirty-six hours in going one hundred a ^ d forty-five English miles . What should we think of one of our stage-coaches , if it were to take three hours in changing the luggage from on $ coaph . \ o another , and making out fresh weigh-bills , and if , in another place , it were to stqp six hours in the middle of its journey for no good yeaspn $ 'ti $ . e ?! er ? Yet this is the way they do things Qn the Continent , especially jn , Italy . The road , however , was good , and the country through whicjh we travelled * one of the most fertile parts of this garden of Europe . The wheat was ajl
shooting into ear , the haymakers were busy at work in the meadows , and the vines , now in full leaf , were either hanging each on its own separate elm , or stretching in graceful festoons from tree to tree * while the distant yjew to the South was bounded by the noble range of the Apennines , which I had crossed in coming from Florence a , few days before . Through this whole line of country , and particularly in the States of the Granfi Puke <^ f Mool ena , there were signs of industry , and of consequent prosperity , which it was very pleasing to remark .
In the afternoon of the second day we arrived at Milgi ) , which appears to be in every respect one of the best of the Italian tovros—the streets we }! paved , and the shops and houses very good . There is al § o a ctegree of siyje in the dresses and equipages of the inhabitants , which is $ clear indication of wealth and fashion . The principal architectural ornament pf She town is the Cathedral—an immense building in the gothic style , though , sqnaewh . a $
different from other structures of the same order in England . The interior has a grand and imposing effect , notwithstanding innumerable faults . Jt has two aisles on each side of the nave , formed by row , s o / pillara which * ire lofty and massive ; but the nave itself is too narrow compared witji its length ; and the dim and dirty colour of the pillars makes an unpleasant contrast with the whiteness and the beauty of the richly orn&paeRtecl ceiling . Besides this , there is a great want of light in the choir , wbich is still further
spoiled by a trumpery representation of Christ on the e ^ p ^ s , and St . John , and one of the Marys standing by . Still , with all it ? faults , the whole is grand , and the dome aud transept particularly light ap 4 beautiful . The church of Milan still retains the ritual of St . Arptoopius ^ a , nd has many practices which are peculiar to itself . One certainly struck me a , s being both very pecujiar and very excellent . When I went iftta the Cathedral on the Sunday afternoon , I found no less than seyen , dif ^ ent services going on at the same time . In , oae place was a layman , w ^ th . a hundred ox
two of men about him , to whom he was preaching in a veiry ferniUai ; bu $ anitnated style . The audience were ail seated on beuckesj placed w a \ square form round the orator , who was also seated . Reyoindi fehis congregation w ^ - another of about the same size , who were listening to the eshpirtiations . of d , pnest ; and on the other side of tfee same transept * wefe ttwee , oilier sroajler and more juvenile audiences assembled round thjcee yowg prie ^ 93 W ^ Q vyere explaining the Catechism , occasionally putting questions tQ thpse , ^ b ( i > uA theuav , aud then enlarging on the answers wbich were given . There w «^ one Qfc * tbem who particularly &tmck me : he had a fine , intcjligeojt coujitenaDce ,
Untitled Article
174 Journal of a Tour on the Continent .
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Citation
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Monthly Repository (1806-1838) and Unitarian Chronicle (1832-1833), March 2, 1829, page 174, in the Nineteenth-Century Serials Edition (2008; 2018) ncse.ac.uk/periodicals/mruc/issues/vm2-ncseproduct2570/page/22/
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